Pet Food Tips:

• Feed your Pet a high-quality diet. Select food made by companies known for nutritional research. Your Banfield veterinarian can recommend the best Pet food diet for your Pet.
• Make sure your Pet’s food is fresh. Purchase only the amount necessary for your Pet.
• Feed your Pet the correct amount of food. Determine portions according to your Pet’s weight and avoid overfeeding.
• Follow a daily feeding schedule. This will help your Pet maintain normal elimination habits and avoid indoor accidents.
• Avoid “people” food. Your Pet’s digestive system is simpler than yours and can be easily upset by feeding him/her table scraps.

Pet Fitness Tips:

• Consult your veterinarian first.  Pets have different exercise needs, so before you begin, ask your veterinarian to help you determine a proper exercise routine for your Pet.
• Your dog needs a walk at least once a day.  If your Pet has been inactive for awhile, then start the exercise routine slowly. Find a walking schedule that works for both you and your Pet, which might call for a short walk twice a day or one long walk.
• Help your cat stay active. For indoor cats, there are a variety of cat toys designed to help your cat stay active, or you can play hide/hunt games with them.

So who says Pets can’t have some New Year’s resolutions, too?!

Article copyright © 2009 courtesy of Banfield, The Pet Hospital.

You take one look, and the next thing you know, you’re walking down the pet food aisle at the supermarket.

If you’re like most of us, falling in love with a pet is easy. And no wonder!

Sharing your home with a four-legged friend can be one of life’s greatest joys. Dogs, cats, and other pets give us unconditional loyalty and acceptance, provide constant companionship, and even help relieve stress after a hard day’s work.

Adopting a pet, though, is a big decision. Dogs and cats require lots of time, money, and commitment—more than 15 years’ worth in many cases. Pet ownership can be rewarding, but only if you think through your decision before you adopt a companion.

Things to Consider

The fact that you’re thinking of adopting from an animal shelter means you’re on the right track—it’s definitely the responsible, caring thing to do. But here are some things to think over first:

• Why do you want a pet? It’s amazing how many people fail to ask themselves this simple question before they get a pet. Adopting a pet just because it’s “the thing to do” or because the kids have been pining for a puppy usually ends up being a big mistake. Don’t forget that pets may be with you 10, 15, even 20 years.
• Do you have time for a pet? Dogs, cats, and other animal companions cannot be ignored just because you’re tired or busy. They require food, water, exercise, care, and companionship every day of every year. Many animals in the shelter are there because their owners didn’t realize how much time it took to care for them.
• Can you afford a pet? The costs of pet ownership can be quite high. Licenses, training classes, spaying and neutering, veterinary care, grooming, toys, food, kitty litter, and other expenses add up quickly.
• Are you prepared to deal with special problems that a pet can cause? Flea infestations, scratched-up furniture, accidents from animals who aren’t yet housetrained, and unexpected medical emergencies are unfortunate but common aspects of pet ownership.
• Can you have a pet where you live? Many rental communities don’t allow pets, and most of the rest have restrictions. Make sure you know what they are before you bring a companion animal home.
• Is it a good time for you to adopt a pet? If you have kids under six years old, for instance, you might consider waiting a few years before you adopt a companion. Pet ownership requires children who are mature enough to be responsible. If you’re a student, in the military, or travel frequently as part of your work, waiting until you settle down is wise.
• Are your living arrangements suitable for the animal you have in mind? Animal size is not the only variable to think about here. For example, some small dogs such as terriers are very active—they require a great deal of exercise to be calm, and they often bark at any noise. On the other hand, some big dogs are laid back and quite content to lie on a couch all day. Before adopting a pet, do some research. That way, you’ll ensure you choose an animal who will fit into your lifestyle and your living arrangements.
• Do you know who will care for your pet while you’re away on vacation? You’ll need either reliable friends and neighbors or money to pay for a boarding kennel or pet-sitting service.
• Will you be a responsible pet owner? Having your pet spayed or neutered, obeying community leash and licensing laws, and keeping identification tags on your pets are all part of being a responsible owner. Of course, giving your pet love, companionship, exercise, a healthy diet, and regular veterinary care are other essentials.
• Finally, are you prepared to keep and care for the pet for his or her entire lifetime? When you adopt a pet, you are making a commitment to care for the animal for his or her lifetime.

Get an Animal for Life

Sure, it’s a long list of questions. But a quick stroll through an animal shelter will help you understand why answering them before you adopt is so important.

Many of the shelter’s homeless animals are puppies and kittens, victims of people who irresponsibly allowed their pets to breed. But there are at least as many dogs and cats at the shelter who are more than a year old—animals who were obtained by people who didn’t think through the responsibilities of pet ownership before they got the animal.

Please, don’t make the same mistake. Think before you adopt. Sharing your life with a companion animal can bring incredible rewards, but only if you’re willing to make the necessary commitments of time, money, responsibility, and love—for the life of the pet.

© Copyright 2008. Reprinted by permission of The Humane Society of the United States.

How to Help

This is a wrenching scenario for all who care about animals. Once you’ve seen the dog (or cat), many feel it’s too late to drive away from him or her. After all, what if your own dog or cat were standing there? So, before you pull over, use these guidelines for assisting animals safely and effectively.

• Be ready to rescue. If you know in your heart that you’re a rescuer, why not equip yourself to do the best possible job?
• Here are some things to have in your car at all times: Phone; phone numbers of local animal control, a shelter, and a 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic; cat carrier or cardboard box; collars and strong leashes for dogs; heavy blanket; water bowls and water; strong-smelling foods, such as canned tuna or dried liver; and an animal first-aid kit.
• Think about your safety first. You cannot help an animal if you become injured in the process. Look in your rear-view mirror before braking, signal your intentions, pull your car completely off the road, turn off the ignition, set the parking brake and put on hazard lights. If you have emergency flares, prepare to use them.
• Consider the safety of the animal. A strange, frightened and possibly sick or injured animal can behave unpredictably. A sudden move on your part, even opening your car door, can spook him and cause him to bolt—possibly right onto the highway. If the animal looks or acts threatening, or, if for any reason, you feel uneasy about the situation, stay in your car.
• If possible, restrain the animal. Create a barrier or use a carrier, leash, piece of cloth or length of rope to keep the animal from leaving the area. Signal approaching vehicles to slow down if you cannot confine the animal, or divert traffic around him if he appears to be injured and is still on the roadway.
• Use caution when approaching the animal. Should you succeed in getting close enough to capture him, you stand a good chance of being scratched or bitten. Even a small animal can inflict a painful wound, and if you are bitten by a cat or dog whose vaccination status is unknown, you will be advised to undergo preventive treatment for rabies.
• When approaching the animal, speak calmly to reassure him. Make sure he can see you at all times as you approach, and perhaps entice him to come to you by offering a strong-smelling food such as canned tuna or dried liver.
• Try to lure an animal into your car with food, close the door, and wait for help. But do this only if you are certain someone will come to get the animal very soon. In most cases it is not a good idea to attempt to drive somewhere with a strange dog unrestrained in your car; he may become frantic or aggressive once you’re in the car with him. Cats may do the same, as well as lodge themselves under the car seat, from which extracting them can be dangerous.

• If you’re not able to safely restrain the animal, call the local police or animal control agency. Do so whether or not the animal is injured, and whether or not he appears to be a stray or to be owned (meaning he is wearing an identification tag or flea collar or has recently been groomed). If you have a phone in your car, call the local animal care and control agency (in rural areas, call the police or sheriff) and report the situation. Leave your phone number with the dispatcher and try to get an estimate of how long it may take someone to respond. If possible, stay on the scene to keep an eye on the dog or cat until help arrives. Make sure you report to authorities precisely where the animal is by using road names, mile markers or landmarks.
• If you are able to transport the animal, take him to the nearest animal shelter. If you plan to keep the animal in the event no owner is found, notify animal control that you have the animal or that you have taken him to a veterinary hospital for treatment. You usually can place a free “found” ad in your local newspaper. Keep a copy of the ID to prove your good intentions should any question arise later.To check on any relevant laws in your state, county or town, contact your local animal control agency, humane society or SPCA. Many times the dog or cat you find along the highway will turn out to be unowned, unwanted and unclaimed. Even so, the person finding the stray dog or cat does not automatically become the owner or keeper—as in “finders keepers”—until he has satisfied certain state and/or local requirements. In almost every state, the animal is not “owned” by the finder until the holding period for strays (as specified by state or local laws) has expired and the finder has made an attempt to reunite the animal with his original owner and/or has taken steps—obtaining vaccinations, license, collar and identification tag—to prove he is now the owner.
• Don’t assume you are dealing with an irresponsible owner. Good Samaritans who have never lost a cherished companion animal may conclude that the owner of the found dog or cat callously abandoned him or, at the very least, neglected to keep him safely confined at home. But accidents can happen to anyone. The frantic owner could be looking everywhere for their beloved pet.

• Understand the limitations of animal care and control agencies. Once you have taken the initiative, time and trouble to rescue a dog or cat along the highway, you might be surprised to find that the rest of the pet care community might not necessarily rush forward to do what you see as its part. For instance, you can take a badly injured stray dog to animal control and find out that the agency is unable to provide expensive surgery to treat the dog’s injuries. In those cases, shelters euthanize the animals to relieve them from their suffering. A cat with relatively minor injuries can be kept for only the mandated stray holding period and then be euthanized. Virtually all animal control facilities have severe budgetary or space limitations and must make painful decisions about how best to allocate their inadequate resources.
• Before you take an injured animal to a private veterinary hospital for treatment, be willing to assume financial responsibility for the animal before treatment begins. Good care is not cheap, and many veterinarians have many Samaritans in their waiting rooms every year. Anyone who is committed to trying to save injured stray animals should discuss these issues in advance with the veterinarian. Fortunately, some states have laws that allow the veterinarian to collect from a fund for treating unowned injured animals who have been presented to them by animal control or a good Samaritan.

If you’re uncertain about whether or not to help or keep an animal you see alongside the road, here’s a final word of advice: First, think of what you would want the finder of your animal to do if he happened to find him injured without his collar.

You’d want him to take your pet to a veterinarian, and you’d want him to try to find you. At the same time, be reasonable about how much you can afford to do for that animal if no owner shows up.

Are you willing to add him to your household? And will you be willing to return him to his original home if the owner turns up after you’ve started to form an attachment?

© Copyright 2008. Reprinted by permission of  The Humane Society of the United States.

Phil Shippers, director of the Visiting Nurse Meals On Wheels program of Rochester, N.Y., knows the importance of getting the message out that homebound seniors with Pets are a vulnerable population.

“We know that many seniors in our community are compromising their own nutrition by sharing their meals with their Pets,” says Shippers.

“Awareness and action are key to preventing this from happening” says Shippers, who began a Pet feeding program in September through partial funding from a $1,000 grant from the Season of Suppers campaign. “In the short period of time since we started a Pet feeding program, we have seen great interest and support from not only our meal recipients but the greater community as well; we strongly believe this support will continue to grow and help us enhance the lives of seniors.”

Making a significant impact for seniors and their Pets
Last year, Banfield’s Season of Suppers campaign raised more than $51,000 to help 50 senior meal programs start or augment Pet feeding programs across the country.

“Since the first Season of Suppers campaign over 100 Meals On Wheels programs have started Pet feeding programs, “says Enid Borden, President and CEO of MOWAA. “While companion Pets are the direct beneficiaries of this campaign, homebound seniors are helped as well – and that’s MOWAA’s primary concern. Before the Season of Suppers campaign, many of these seniors lacked access to Pet food and were sharing their own meals with their Pets. Now, both seniors and their Pets are getting proper nutrition. It’s a win-win.”

Banfield’s 2008 Season of Suppers campaign takes place throughout Banfield’s more than 730 Pet hospitals across the country, beginning Nov. 1, 2008, and continues through the end of the year. Supporters can drop off Pet food or make monetary donations at any local Banfield.

NEW this year—2008 Season of Suppers Pet-themed note cards
In addition to donating Pet food and monetary contributions at local Banfield hospitals, supporters can participate in the campaign by purchasing full-color, Pet-themed note cards. A packet of eight cards will be sold for $10 and all of the proceeds from the note card sales, as well as monetary donations throughout the campaign, will be used to improve the lives of MOWAA recipients and their Pets.

Supporters may also purchase cards by contacting the Banfield Charitable Trust at (503) 922-5801 or writing to info@banfieldcharitabletrust.org

How the story began
After realizing that, like their owners, the Pets of many MOWAA recipients were in need of nutritious food, MOWAA launched We All Love Our Pets (WALOP). This initiative enables local Meals On Wheels programs to begin or sustain Pet food programs to nourish the Pets of seniors.

The Banfield–MOWAA partnership is the first initiative of its kind on a national level—it aims to feed all Pets of MOWAA recipients.

“We are truly honored to help support MOWAA’s WALOP program through the collaboration of Banfield, The Pet Hospital, the Banfield Charitable Trust and MOWAA and our Season of Suppers campaign,” says Sandra Campbell, President, Banfield Charitable Trust. “The success of this campaign continues to grow each year.”

About Banfield, The Pet Hospital®
Founded in Portland, Oregon, in 1955, Banfield has become the largest Pet general veterinary practice in the world, with more than 730 quality hospitals in many neighborhoods across the U.S., in the U.K. and in Mexico. More than 1,500 veterinarians at Banfield are committed to giving Pets the same level of care that their human family members receive. Banfield hospitals offer a full-range of comprehensive, medical services, computerized medical records, Pet preventive care plans, extended operating hours, and is the only veterinary practice in the world with an extensive quality assurance program. Banfield, The Pet Hospital helps extend the lives of millions of Pets each year.

Go to your local Banfield from now until December 31 to make your donation! Find your local Banfield here.

Copyright © 2008. Courtesy of Edelman Digital for Banfield®, The Pet Hospital.

The Humane Society of the United States recommends that, in addition to preparing for routine pet-care costs, you regularly set aside savings to cover for unexpected veterinary bills. Create a special “pet savings account” and contribute money to it on a regular basis.

If, despite your planning, your pet incurs major veterinary expenses that you have trouble affording, consider these suggestions:

• Ask your veterinarian if he or she will let you work out a payment plan. If you visit your veterinarian often for your pet’s preventative care and have a good relationship with the hospital staff, see if their office would be willing to work out a weekly or monthly payment plan so that you do not have to pay the entire cost of veterinary care up front. Please note - most clinics cannot afford to offer internal payment plans to all their clients, so only ask if you know the staff well and are confident that they know your payment history.
• Contact your local shelter. Some shelters operate or know of local subsidized veterinary clinics or veterinary assistance programs. You can find the name and number of your local shelter in our Resource Drectory (coming soon!). You can also go to www.Pets911.com and enter your zip code to find a list of animal shelters, animal control agencies, and other animal care organizations in your community.
• If you have a specific breed of dog, contact the National Club for that breed. In some cases, these clubs offer a veterinary financial assistance fund.
• Ask your veterinarian to submit an assistance request to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) “Helping Pets Fund.” In order to qualify, your animal hospital must be AAHA accredited. To learn more about the program visit the AAHA web site. To find a AAHA accredited hospital in your area, search online at www.Pets911.com.
• Use your credit card. Ask for a higher credit limit or a cash advance.
• Contact Care Credit at www.carecredit.com.
• Call your bank. Ask about loan programs, second mortgages, or other options. Consider borrowing from your life insurance policy, vacation savings, kids’ education fund, or retirement program.
• Ask your employer for a salary advance.
• Alert family and friends and ask them each for a $25 loan.
• Pawn your stuff. TVs and VCRs can be replaced. Your pet can’t.
• Consider taking on a part-time job or temping.
• Contact the regional office of The Humane Society that covers your state. Their staff is often familiar with organizations and personnel within their territory and may be able to direct you to programs in your area.

Please remember that, depending on the severity of your pet’s illness or injury, you may still lose your pet even after great expense. Discuss the prognosis and treatment options thoroughly with your veterinarian, including whether surgery or treatment would just cause your animal discomfort without preserving a life of good quality.

Also remember that a little preventive care can go a long way. Having your pet spayed or neutered, keeping her shots up to date, and keeping your pet safely confined can prevent serious and costly health problems. If you have trouble affording the cost to spay or neuter your pet, contact your local animal shelter. They may operate a clinic or know of a local clinic that offers subsidized services.

Reprinted by permission of The Humane Society of the United States.

The following is a list of organizations that provide financial assistance to pet owners in need. Some are local to the Pacific Northwest and some are national organizations. Please keep in mind that each organization is independent and has their own set of rules and guidelines; therefore you will have to investigate each one separately to determine if you qualify for assistance:

• Coupons for discounted spay/neuter services at participating clinics in the greater Portland area. Click on a link to download the coupon.
  Oregon Spay & Neuter Fund
  Beavercreek Animal Hospital Spay/Neuter coupon
• Help-A-Pet, help-a-pet.org
• The Pet Fund, thepetfund.com
• Good Sam Fund, goodsamfund.org
• United Animal Nations LifeLine Fund, uan.org
• Angels for Animals, angels4animals.org
• Brown Dog Foundation, browndogfoundation.org/home
• Feline Veterinary Emergency Assistance Program, fveap.org
• Feline Outreach, felineoutreach.org
• Cats In Crisis, catsincrisis.org
• The Perseus Foundation (Cancer specific), PerseusFoundation.org
• Orthodogs’ Silver Lining Foundation (Orthopedic Cases and Service Dogs), oslf.org
• Canine Cancer Awareness, caninecancerawareness.org
• Cody’s Club (Radiation treatments), codysclub.bravehost.com/
• Diabetic Pets Fund, petdiabetes.net/fund/
• The Mosby Foundation, themosbyfoundation.org
• Sadie’s Cancer Fund, tahoedog.net/sadie

Background

They can be trained to use a litter box, they’ll come when called, and some will engage their owners in a daily game of tag! Domestic rabbits are delightful companion animals. They are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and affectionate—and if well-cared for, indoor rabbits can live for seven to ten or more years.

There’s a lot of variety among domestic rabbits. The more than 60 breeds include the Dutch, who’s very popular in the United States, droopy eared German lops and furry Cashmeres. Rabbits range in size from teeny two-pounders to the 13-pound Flemish Giant.

Rabbits and Children: Some Words of Caution

Our culture is so filled with images of children and rabbits together (think the Easter bunny and Peter Rabbit) that many parents see rabbits as low-maintenance starter pets for kids. Nothing could be further from the truth. Rabbits are physically delicate and fragile, and require specialized veterinary care. It’s true that children are naturally energetic and loving, but “loving” to a small child means holding, cuddling, or carrying an animal around—precisely the things that frighten most rabbits. Rabbits can’t cry out when distressed. Instead, they may start to scratch or bite to protect themselves from well-meaning children. Thousands are abandoned at animal shelters every year for this reason. Many rabbits are also dropped accidentally by children, resulting in broken legs and backs. While a rabbit may be a great pet for your family, an adult should be the primary caretaker.

Cost

When you first get your rabbit, you’ll need to spend about $90 for a cage, $30 for a carrier and $25 for a litter box. Food runs about $125 a year, plus $25 annually for toys and treats, $125 for veterinary care and $400 annually for litter and bedding material.

The best place to get your bun? Adoption is your first, and best, option! There are many homeless companion rabbits at shelters and rescue groups all across the country.

Housing and Exercise

Where’s the only place for your rabbit’s cage? INDOORS! Although an outdoor hutch has been the traditional housing for a rabbit, today we know better. A backyard hutch forces these social critters to live in unnatural isolation. Furthermore, rabbits can die of heart attacks from the very approach of a predator or vandal. Keep your bunny safe indoors, where he can have plenty of interaction with family members.

They may be small, but rabbits require a lot of room for housing and exercise. They have powerful hind legs designed for running and jumping. Get your pet a cage that allows him to move freely. The minimum recommended cage space for a single rabbit of a small- to medium-sized breed is four feet wide, two feet deep and two feet tall. Although wire-bottom cages are common, they can ulcerate a rabbit’s feet. If you have a wire cage, cover the bottom with a piece of wood or corrugated cardboard. Better yet, buy a cage with a solid bottom. Please put down plenty of straw, hay or aspen shavings so your pet can make a cozy nest.

Please note, rabbits should not be housed with other rabbits unless all are spayed and neutered. Introductions are often difficult and injuries can result, so please introduce them in neutral territory, under careful supervision.

Did you know that many rabbits have been surrendered to shelters because of destructive behavior? In most cases, their owners failed to provide them with appropriate toys to fulfill their natural urges to dig and chew. Safe chew toys include cardboard boxes, an old telephone directory (that’s no joke!) and commercially made chew sticks. You bun will greatly appreciate his own digging box, such as a cardboard box filled halfway with soil or shredded paper.

Your rabbit needs a safe exercise area with ample room to run and jump, either indoors or out. Any outdoor area should be fully enclosed by a fence. Never leave a rabbit unsupervised outdoors—even for a few minutes! Cats, dogs and even predatory birds can easily get around fencing material. Also, rabbits can dig under fences and get lost. You can rabbit-proof an indoor area by covering all electrical wires and anything else your pet is likely to chew. Recommended exercise time for pet rabbits is several hours per day.

Diet

The most important component of your rabbit’s diet is grass hay, such as timothy or brome. This is crucial for keeping his intestinal tract healthy. Unlimited hay should be available at all times.

You’ll also need to feed your bunny good-quality rabbit pellets. Opt for a formula with at least 15 to 19 percent protein and 18 percent fiber. Until your pet is fully grown (around six months), he can have all the pellets he wants. After that, pellets should be limited to 1/8 to 1/4 cup per day per five pounds of bunny body weight. Pellets should be fresh and plain, without seeds, nuts or colored tidbits.

Fresh leafy greens make up a third component of your pet’s diet. He’ll enjoy dark leaf lettuces, collard greens, turnip greens and carrot tops. We recommend a minimum of two cups per six pounds of rabbit.

Clean, fresh water, dispensed in a bottle or sturdy bowl, should be available at all times.

Litter Training

Rabbits are very clean by nature, and will do their best to keep their living quarters clean. Most rabbits will choose one corner of the cage as a bathroom. As soon as your rabbit’s choice is clear, put a newspaper-lined litter box in that corner. Fill it with timothy hay (or any other grass hay except alfalfa) or pelleted-newspaper litter. If the litter box is changed daily, your rabbit’s home will stay fresh and odor-free. Don’t use pine or cedar shavings! The fumes may affect your rabbit’s liver enzymes, which can cause problems if the animal needs anesthesia for surgery. Avoid using clay cat litters (both clumping and non-clumping), as these may result in respiratory or gastrointestinal problems.

Handling and General Care

Rabbits can be messy, so you’ll need to clean your pet’s cage once or twice weekly. Put your rabbit in a safe room or alternate cage as you sweep out the cage and scrub the floor with warm, soapy water.

Pick up your rabbit by supporting his forequarters with one hand and his hindquarters with the other—failure to do so can result in spinal injuries to the rabbit. Never pick up a rabbit by his ears; this can cause very serious injury.

Brush your rabbit regularly with a soft brush to remove excess hair and keep his coat in good condition. Brush from the back of the head down to the tail. Ask your veterinarian how to clip your pet’s nails.

Health and Veterinary Care

Rabbits should be spayed or neutered by a veterinarian experienced with rabbit surgeries. Spaying or neutering prevents unwanted litters, spraying in males and uterine cancer in females. To find a qualified rabbit veterinarian, please see our Resource Directory (coming soon!) or visit the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org).

You should bring your pet to the vet for a check-up once a year. If your rabbit stops eating or moving his bowels for 12 hours or longer or has watery diarrhea, don’t wait–seek expert veterinary care immediately. Other signs of illness include runny nose and eyes, dark red urine, lethargy, fur loss and red, swollen skin.

Written for the ASPCA by Mary E. Cotter, Ed.D., licensed educator, House Rabbit Society; additional information provided by the ASPCA.

Rabbit Supply Checklist

- Cage, preferably solid-bottom
- Carrier
- Good-quality rabbit pellets
- Litter box with hay or pelleted bedding
- Grass hay and hay rack
- Sturdy ceramic or metal food bowl
- Ceramic water bowl or water bottle that attaches to cage
- Grooming brush
- Digging box and safe chew toys

More Rabbit Care Tips:

- He’s doing what?! Do not be alarmed if you see your rabbit eating his feces. This may seem strange, but it is perfectly normal and perfectly healthy. The small, soft pellets are an extra source of nutrients and aid in digestion.

- When they sense danger or don’t feel secure, rabbits thump their back legs on the ground. So that’s how Thumper got his name?

- For information on rabbit care that’s written especially for kids, check out ASPCA Animaland.

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). All Rights Reserved. Reprinted with written permission.

CareCredit is like a credit card that can be used to pay for veterinary and human healthcare services. It has no annual fees, several no-interest payment plans, and extended payment plans. It can be used as soon as you are qualified and you can apply over the phone or online at www.carecredit.com. See the website for more details.

A credit card for pets? Well, yes, for his healthcare needs—and yours too. CareCredit works just like a credit card, but is exclusive for healthcare services. And, it’s better because you get No Interest financing every time you use it. You can use the card over and over for follow-up visits with your veterinarian or pursue the pet dentistry you’ve wanted. This means you don’t have to put your pet’s healthcare on hold. We give you the power to decide when it’s the right time for you.

He’s your best pal. Your loyal cuddling partner. Your faithful companion. You don’t even mind those early morning walks. He needs regular checkups, just like the rest of us. He gets sick, too. And CareCredit is here to help keep him healthy with the card designed specifically for you and your pet’s health needs. Whether it’s an everyday checkup, or an emergency surgery, we offer you convenient monthly payment options, no up-front costs, no prepayment penalties and no annual fees so you can worry about the important stuff. You know, like playing fetch and learning new tricks.

For more information or to apply online, visit CareCredit.com.

Start-up cost and fish type Keeping aquarium fish typically has a fairly high start-up cost. This is mostly due to all the equipment needed to provide the fish with a proper environment. Purchasing a tank, filters, lights, and other essentials can add up quickly if you are not careful. Fish themselves, can range from inexpensive to very expensive for special or rare species. For a beginning freshwater fish enthusiast, a typical start-up cost can range from $200 and up, depending on the types of fish and equipment selected. Marine (saltwater) fish and marine tank setups will cost more than freshwater setups. In both cases, the larger the tank the higher the cost will be. A typical tropical freshwater aquarium can safely support one inch of fish per gallon of water, although this will vary with the amount of water surface area (More surface area allows more oxygen, which supports more fish. Fish length is calculated at full-grown size, less the tail measurement.). Some fish are schooling fish, which by nature are more comfortable in bigger groups. Other fish may not like to be in an aquarium with any others of its own species. And, if they are territorial - as most marine fish and some freshwater fish can be - they will need more room in the aquarium than the average one-inch per gallon. Both marine and freshwater setups have benefits and drawbacks. Marine fish are more colorful and beautiful, but require a higher level of care and expertise, so for a beginning fish enthusiast, a freshwater aquarium is recommended. Freshwater aquariums tend to be easier to maintain than marine aquariums because there are fewer chemical balances to worry about.

Aquarium size and placement A good way to determine the size and type of aquarium you need to purchase is to get an idea of what kind of fish you find attractive. Your choice will be further restricted by where you can place the tank in your home, and by your budget. But as a general guideline, bigger is better. If you buy a larger aquarium than you think you need at first, it gives you room to add more fish later, if you choose to do so. The larger aquarium will also have more water, which can help thin out chemicals or other substances that may pollute the aquarium and cause illness in fish. No matter what size aquarium you choose, be sure that you can locate it somewhere with a level, sturdy, support surface, and where it is not in danger of being bumped into or knocked over. You should also keep your aquarium away from heater vents, windows, or doors, as these can produce harmful temperature fluctuations. Proximity to windows is also dangerous for aquariums, because it can allow too much light into the tank. Excess light leads to algae build-up, and you will quickly find yourself fighting a losing battle.

Patience and the nitrogen cycle You may think that because your water starts out fine as you begin your setup, that it will remain that way. Not true. As you add fish to your aquarium, their waste produces harmful chemicals. Fortunately, nature provides a solution in the form of bacteria that break down these toxic chemicals into relatively harmless chemicals. The process nature uses to eliminate toxins from the tank is called the nitrogen cycle. Fish excrete toxic ammonia as part of respiration, and decaying fish waste and uneaten food produces additional ammonia. As the nitrogen cycle begins, the ammonia is converted by special kinds of bacteria into nitrites (which are also harmful), and these are then converted into nitrates. Excess nitrates can be controlled through partial water changes. The bacteria required for this process build slowly on the surface of your filters and gravel or substrate, and the process can take up to six weeks, starting from the day that you first add fish to your aquarium. (Estimate longer times if your tank setup requires a lower temperature.) Developing enough bacteria to maintain the health of your aquarium requires both time and patience on the part of the beginning aquarium hobbyist. You will need time to “cycle” the tank. There are various recommendations on how to accomplish this. The number one rule is to go slowly. This means, at first, you may only add some plants. After about two weeks, add a few hardy fish which are tolerant of changing water conditions. You should start with fewer fish than your aquarium can hold, then add any additional fish over a period of weeks, allowing the ecosystem in the aquarium to readjust (recycle) in between. Each step needs to be gradual so the bacteria have enough time to multiply and break down the increasing amount of waste products. Until the nitrogen cycle is functioning normally, it can be a stressful time for new fish and for you. It is a good idea to have an ammonia test kit on hand to monitor the nitrogen cycle by testing the water regularly. Despite the temptation to make changes to your aquarium, it is important that you not intervene unless ammonia or nitrite levels become intolerably high for long periods of time (temporary highs in both ammonia and nitrite levels are a part of the process). You should also avoid adding too many fish while the nitrogen cycle is being established, because you will disrupt the bacterial growth. As the cycle naturally progresses, the fish already in the aquarium can gradually adjust to changing water conditions with slightly elevated ammonia or nitrites. New fish might find these levels deadly. Once the nitrogen cycle is completed, your aquarium will be able to detoxify constant levels of ammonia and other chemicals as long as you maintain the bacteria colony. Keeping those colonies healthy, or optimizing the amount of bacteria in the aquarium can be a function of the type of filtration equipment that you choose to use.

Filtration equipment Determining the right filtration equipment is one of the most confusing but important choices that you will need to make. Essentially, aquarium filters work in three different ways. Biological filtration takes advantage of the natural bacterial process involved in the nitrogen cycle. Biological filters provide larger surfaces for beneficial bacteria to colonize, ensure that water passes through the colonies, and help to protect those bacteria from being disturbed. Mechanical filtration removes unsightly particles from the aquarium. This may include fish excrement, sludge, uneaten food, or dust. Tank water is passed through a mechanical filter, and the particles are strained out. To prevent build-up, the filter media must be cleaned regularly. Chemical filtration can remove some dissolved wastes from the water which a mechanical filter is unable to take care of. When water passes through a chemical filter, the filter media chemically bonds with the waste molecules and holds onto them, thereby removing them from the aquarium. Various filters offer various combinations of the different filtration methods:

Ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers Sterilizers can be used in the prevention of free-floating algae, bacteria, viruses, fungus, and even some parasites. UV sterilizers incorporate a germicidal or UV lamp in which the ultraviolet rays emitted will kill certain organisms based on the amount of ultraviolet rays they are exposed to. The effectiveness on what organisms are killed is based directly on the flow rate of the water through the sterilizer, the wattage and diameter of the sterilizer itself, and the size of the aquarium. UV sterilizers are particularly beneficial in reef aquariums and marine fish-only aquariums. While some freshwater aquariums will use a UV sterilizer they are not nearly as common and not considered essential equipment. If a larger UV sterilizer is used to control parasites as well as bacteria be aware that they can generate a lot of heat and may increase the need of a chiller in large reef aquariums.

Aquarium lighting Proper lighting is essential for tanks containing live plants, or marine animals that are dependent on light for food. Good lighting will also make the aquarium and the animals within look more attractive. Since the animals are no longer exposed to natural sunlight, providing the proper spectrum and intensity is vital for their overall good health.

Heaters and thermometers No matter what kind of fish you choose, they will have fairly specific temperature requirements. The water temperature in an aquarium must remain constant; if the temperature is allowed to fluctuate too much, your fish can become stressed, which can lead to illness. Most fish need a water temperature between 75 and 80¬?F. If you have one species in your aquarium, you can set the temperature specifically to reflect their needs. If, however, you have multiple species, 76 or 77¬?F is a safe temperature target. Marine aquariums may require more attention to keep a consistent temperature, as they tend to need more light, which can warm the water.

Test kits and the addition of miscellaneous chemicals The welfare of your new aquarium is dependent on its water quality. You will find that you need to purchase various chemicals and additives to help it achieve and maintain the proper balance for good water quality. Depending on the fish that you choose, you may need special pH adjusters and buffers, or salt and trace element additives. Water conditioners are a must for removing chlorine and harmful chemicals from tap water, and test kits are necessary to ensure that your water quality begins and remains at viable levels.

Food and supplements Diet is an important element to ensure healthy fish, and the ideal diet goes beyond the simple “flaked” foods available in most stores. Flaked foods are sufficient for your fish, but feeding your fish flakes every day can be comparable to you eating nothing but rice every day - it is enough to survive for a while, but it lacks some essential nutrients, and can eventually become quite boring. There are different options when it comes to your fish’s diet, but the key thing to remember is that a varied diet is best. Plan on rotating fish food periodically and on supplying supplements or vitamin boosters for added nutrition. This way the fish will be sure to receive all the nutrients they need and will remain active. Some fish enthusiasts prefer live food. You may hear a good deal of debate about this topic as you progress in your hobby. Live food has its own set of risks and benefits and is a big enough issue that it should be left alone by beginners. Freeze-dried foods and pellets make good alternatives, as do items like zooplankton and krill, which can be purchased.

Health control Illness - it happens to all living things. At one time or another, your fish may become sick. While at first you may feel helpless, do not worry; there are a number of ways you can treat your sick fish in your own home. While most of the treatments depend on the specific ailment, it is a good idea to plan ahead and get another tank set up to use as a “quarantine tank” (this is also useful when adding new fish to an existing aquarium). By separating the sick fish, you can speed up the healing process and at the same time, reduce the risk of spreading the illness to other fish. Fish ailments can be caused by a variety of sources. The most common causes of sickness are fungal, bacterial, or parasitic. You will need treatments for each of the main types, and it is best to keep these on hand before disaster strikes.

Buying healthy fish from the start Before you go to buy your fish, you will need to set up your aquarium and have it running for at least 3-4 weeks beforehand to ensure that the nitrogen cycle is complete and all mechanical equipment is functioning properly. Once you are ready to buy, a reputable on line retailer or pet store is a good place for beginners to buy their fish. You should decide in advance what species of fish you want and how many you want, so you can avoid temptation or pressure from pet store clerks to purchase something inappropriate. Remember that initially only a few of the hardiest species should be purchased, then after several weeks of allowing your aquarium to mature, additional fish can be purchased. There are also some things to keep in mind when you are picking out your fish in the store. Specifically, the fish should: *Be alert. *Be active, but not hyperactive or skittish. *Have clear eyes. *Have full, but not bloated stomachs. *Have well-shaped fins that are in good condition. * Be breathing steadily, without laboring to breathe. *Appear clean and colorful, without unnatural spots or excess slime. Be certain to get the fish home quickly, and ask the clerk to add extra water to the bag if you are going to drive more than fifteen minutes or so. Float the bag of fish in your aquarium to give it time to adjust to the water temperature. And, if you have made adjustments to pH or other chemical levels, gradually add water from your aquarium to the bag of fish over the next hour to give the fish time to acclimatize. During this process, be careful to never add water from the fish store to the water in your aquarium. Remember, as a general rule of thumb, a tropical freshwater aquarium can safely support one inch of fish per gallon of water, though this increases with larger aquariums.

Do not forget the live plants While live plants may be intimidating to some new freshwater aquarists, they do not have to be. If you acquire some of the hardier species, they can thrive in most aquariums and are notably beneficial in controlling algae, improving water quality, reducing stress for the fish, and making your aquarium look more natural and beautiful. If you will have plants, provide at least 1.5 watts of lamp power for every gallon of water in the aquarium (2-3 watts is better). This will usually require that you get at least a double strip lamp or a compact fluorescent, which are not standard on many starter tanks, but are well worth the additional expense. Choose a medium to fine gravel substrate, and ideally, add a long term fertilizer. By following these few simple rules, you should have your aquarium up and running smoothly in 6-8 weeks. Remember that a larger tank is easier to regulate and allows a greater variety of species. While a 10-gallon tank may initially appear a little cheaper, a 29-gallon tank is a better starter tank and is going to provide a better environment for your fish, and a more diverse population of fish. (c) 2008 Drs. Foster and Smith, Inc. Reprinted as a courtesy and with permission from PetEducation.com.

Take 30 to 60 seconds to safely collect and have at hand any material involved. This may be of great benefit to your vet and/or APCC toxicologists, as they determine what poison or poisons are involved. In the event that you need to take your pet to a local veterinarian, be sure to take the product’s container with you. Also, collect in a sealable plastic bag any material your pet may have vomited or chewed.

If you witness your pet consuming material that you suspect might be toxic, do not hesitate to seek emergency assistance, even if you do not notice any adverse effects. Sometimes, even if poisoned, an animal may appear normal for several hours or for days after the incident.

Call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

The telephone number is (888) 426-4435. There is a $60 consultation fee for this service.

Be ready with the following information:
- the species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved
- the animal’s symptoms
- information regarding the exposure, including the agent (if known), the amount of the agent involved and the time elapsed since the time of exposure.
Have the product container/packaging available for reference.

Please note: If your animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone ahead and bring your pet immediately to your local veterinarian or emergency veterinary clinic. If necessary, he or she may call the APCC.
Be Prepared
Keep the telephone number of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center—(888) 426-4435—as well as that of your local veterinarian, in a prominent location.

Invest in an emergency first-aid kit for your pet. The kit should contain:

• a fresh bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP (to induce vomiting)
• a turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe (to administer peroxide)
• saline eye solution
• artificial tear gel (to lubricate eyes after flushing)
• mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid (for bathing an animal after skin contamination)
• forceps (to remove stingers)
• a muzzle (to protect against fear- or excitement-induced biting)
• a can of your pet’s favorite wet food
• a  pet carrier

Always consult a veterinarian or the APCC for directions on how and when to use any emergency first-aid item.

Copyright © 2008. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). All Rights Reserved.

Things that are present in the environment whenever your dog hears the startling noise can, from her viewpoint, become associated with the frightening sound.  Over a period of time, she may become afraid of other things in the environment that she associates with the noise that frightens her.  For example, dogs that are afraid of thunder may later become afraid of the wind, dark clouds and flashes of light that often precede the sound of thunder.  Dogs that are afraid of firecrackers may become afraid of the children who have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in the backyard, if that is where they usually hear the noise.

What You Can Do To Help
Create A Safe Place: Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when she hears the noises that frighten her.  But remember, this must be a safe location from her perspective, not yours.  Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when she is frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that place.  If she is trying to get inside the house, consider installing a dog door.  If she is trying to get under your bed, give her access to your bedroom.  You can also create a “hidey-hole” that is dark, small and shielded from the frightening sound as much as possible (a fan or radio playing will help block out the sound).  Encourage her to go there when you are home and the thunder or other noise occurs.  Feed her in that location and associate other “good things” happening to her there.  She must be able to come and go from this location freely.  Confining her in the “hidey-hole” when she does not want to be there will only cause more problems.  The “safe place” approach may work with some dogs, but not all.  Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when frightened and “hiding out” will not help them feel less fearful.

Distract Your Dog: This method works best when your dog is just beginning to get anxious.  Encourage her to engage in any activity that captures her attention and distracts her from behaving fearfully.  Start when she first alerts you to the noise and is not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only watchful.  Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she really enjoys.  Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escape- proof area) or practice some commands that she knows.  Give her a lot of praise and treats for paying attention to the game or the commands.  As the storm or the noise builds, you may not be able to keep her attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the fearful behavior for longer and longer each time you do it.  If you cannot keep her attention and she begins acting afraid, stop the process.  If you continue, you may inadvertently reinforce her fearful behavior.

Behavior Modification: Behavior modification techniques are often successful in reducing fears and phobias. The appropriate techniques are called “counter-conditioning” and “desensitization.”  This means to condition or teach your dog to respond in non-fearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that previously frightened her.  This must be done very gradually. Begin by exposing her to an intensity level of noise that does not frighten her and pair it with something pleasant, like a treat or a fun game.  Gradually increase the volume as you continue to offer her something pleasant.  Through this process, she will come to associate “good things” with the previously feared sound.

Example:

• Make a tape with firecracker noises on it.
• Play the tape at such a low volume that your dog does not respond fearfully.  While the tape is playing, feed her dinner, give her a treat or play her favorite game. In your next session, play the tape a little louder while you feed her or play her favorite game.
• Continue increasing the volume through many sessions over a period of several weeks or months.  If at any time while the tape is playing, she displays fearful behavior, STOP.  Begin your next session at a lower volume - one that does not produce anxiety - and proceed more slowly.

If these techniques are not used correctly, they will not be successful and can even make the problem worse. For some fears, it can be difficult to recreate the fear stimulus.  For example, thunder is accompanied by changes in barometric pressure, lightning and rain, and your dog’s fearful response may be to the combination of these things and not just the thunder.  You may need professional assistance to create and implement this kind of behavior modification program.

Consult Your Veterinarian: Medication may be available which can make your dog less anxious for short time periods.  Your veterinarian is the only person who is licensed and qualified to prescribe medication for your dog. Do not attempt to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without consulting your veterinarian. Animals do not respond to drugs the same way people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to your dog.  Drug therapy alone will not reduce fears and phobias permanently, but in extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together might be the best approach.

What Not To Do

• Attempting to reassure your dog when she is afraid may reinforce her fearful behavior.  If you pet, soothe or give treats to her when she is behaving fearfully, she may interpret this as a reward for her fearful behavior. Instead, try to behave normally, as if you do not notice her fearfulness.
• Putting your dog in a crate to prevent her from being destructive during a thunderstorm is not recommended.  She will still be afraid when she is in the crate and is likely to injure herself, perhaps even severely, while attempting to get out of the crate.
• Do not punish your dog for being afraid.  Punishment will only make her more fearful.
• Do not try to force your dog to experience or be close to the sound that frightens her.  For example, making her stay close to a group of children who are lighting firecrackers will only make her more afraid, and could cause her to become aggressive in an attempt to escape from the situation.

Obedience classes will not make your dog less afraid of thunder or other noises, but could help boost her general confidence.

These approaches do not work because they do not decrease your dog’s fear.  Merely trying to prevent her from escaping or being destructive will not work.  If she is still afraid, she will continue to show that fear in whatever way she can (digging, jumping, climbing, chewing, barking, howling).

Animal Behavior Specialists
If your dog has severe fears and phobias and you are unable to achieve success with the techniques we have outlined here, you should refer to our article “When the Behavior Help Line Can’t Help”.

© 2004 Dumb Friends League.  All Rights Reserved.